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The Esperanza Triolette

Sep 23rd, 2015

The Esperanza Triolette

When I was commissioned to create a design for the Esperanza diamond discovered by Brooke Oskarson at the Crater of Diamonds in Arkansas, I was inspired by the shape of the diamond to create something that would best suit the shape. I have done a similar diamond some years back which was masterly set in a pendant for a good friend of mine by New Zealand creative genius, Ian Douglas.www.theinspiredcollection.com

The curves of the Esperanza dictated to a large extent what the final shape would be like. I was considering briolettes of different configurations, but the problem with these chandelier crystal shapes is that they do not return light and that they are mere reflectors. So I had to get out of the reflector box and come up with something that would be truly 3 dimensional, yet have the ability to return light.

After some initial work in GemCad to determine the facet configuration I migrated to Autodesk Inventor to get the angles of facets and facet sizes predetermined so that when the time for cutting the gem come about, that the  parameters and equally important, the faceting sequence would be in place. I needed a road map for the ‘Journey of the Esperanza’. The final design in 3D  had 7 x 7 facets per triangular section for a total of 147 facets.

© Copyright – Mike Botha 2015

When it came time for polishing I realized the projected dimensions were slightly optimistic as some of the concave areas of the diamond took more weight to eradicate which led to the dimensions to be shrunk by 9 % overall. Proportionally the profile remained the same and looked like the projected model.

This is what the lady finally looked like.

Absolutely colorless, awesome. This color is the best I have ever seen and I have done my fair share of colorless in my life. This diamond redefines colorless. Because of its lack of nitrogen content, this was by far the hardest diamond I have cut in my entire career. This diamond had no twinning or graining to complicate the progress, it was just HARD! It took many hours to cut and polish, but the result is well worth the effort and I will do it again if I have to, in fact I would like to and more so if the next Esperanza Cut has a little N to ‘soften’ it up a bit.

Esperanza Cut

I initially named the cut ‘Triolette’, but after some discussion with everyone involved with the diamond, we thought it fitting to rename it the Esperanza Cut. After all, the Esperanza was really the best medium to give meaningful expression to the design. This is a tribute to a great gem.

© Copyright – Mike Botha 2015

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