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Fancy Color Diamonds – True Body Color

Nov 9th, 2015

Fancy Color Diamonds – True Body Color


True Body Color 1

Some years back I received a Natural Fancy Yellow diamond which was a poorly cut cushion shape. The request from the client was that I re-cut this into a properly cut cushion shape. The copy of the report stated that it was a natural Fancy Yellow. I called the client and informed him that the diamond does not have the body color of a fancy yellow. The calls went back and forth and with my last call before I started the work I sounded the warning; ‘this is an M color.’ He replied; ‘cut the diamond, I will fight them on the color, they have to honor their former report!’

So how did this credible laboratory arrive at the color? This is what happened: The diamond in question had four natural yellow radiation stains on the girdle. The cutter decided to use geometric color induction to enhance the color of the diamond. By lowering the pavilion angle he caused the girdle of the diamond to reflect around the culet, creating the illusion that the diamond was fancy yellow. Yes the diamond looked marginally fancy yellow, but the body color suggested otherwise. It had the typical ‘crushed ice’ look of a fish eye diamond like the one at the top of this post.

Well, I went ahead and I re-cut the diamond into a beautiful and bright cushion with super light return. My client submitted it to the same laboratory with the original report. The answer came back after a while, you have guessed it ‘M’ color. When he challenged them, they answered that the diamond was substantially changed and it does not resemble the one they originally graded! Needles to say, that is what I expected. The ‘reputable’ laboratory failed to take the true body color of the diamond into consideration in the first instance and call it what it really was, an ‘M’ color.

A warning to jewelers

Next time you purchase a fancy color diamond, have a close look. If you see the ‘crushed ice’ look, do not buy it as it is ethically wrong to pass this on to an unsuspecting consumer. Cutters that do this need to be punished with ‘no sale’ or deep discounts. Have a look at the TBC (true body color). If it does not exhibit similar saturation of color in the side and face up views, then pass. Should a client buy the crushed ice diamond from you and later decide to have it re-cut because of its lack of brilliance, (they always lack brilliance) your reputation would be on the line!

Remember the words of Mark Twain: “It’s easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled.”

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