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Considering diamond restoration?

Apr 14th, 2014

Considering diamond restoration?

As much as we’d like to, we accept the fact that not all diamonds are ideal candidates- and very often, we fight to maintain certain thresholds (depending on investment, design or sentimental value), whilst also aiming for the highest possible cut grade.1.11OE-crown-a1

Sentimental value always dictates the cutter’s direction. With family heirlooms, we’re not only faced with emotions and memories, but also older and sometimes less durable (badly cut) shapes or damaged goods. Restoration and repair of vintage shapes can be challenging, whereas the full re-cut to a more desirable shape seems to have become extremely popular. We do 3D Sarine Advisor scans of all diamonds submitted for re-cutting and consult with our clients on the best course of action.

Investment value is by far the most popular to manage as you already know how much you have invested in the pieces. Weight loss as a percentage varies greatly and is predicated by the material we start off with, but the key considerations during the re-cut are always:

1.) Weight loss of cut to the highest cut-grade, and any weight retention options to maintain thresholds without compromise cut grade (too much). Sometimes we are required to cut for a 1 or a 2 cut grade.

2.) Clarity gain and possible color liberation are always bonuses as a result of careful re-cut planning.

What are these margins? This is always a tough call. So, re-cutting a 6.5mm could result in a 6.2-6.4mm depending on the damage to the original stone (provided it wasn’t a pizza or ice cream cone to begin with). The cutter that repaired the 1.18ct posted here, cut it to end up as a 1.08ct (a GIA cut grade of good).

Not all diamonds are AGS 000 candidates as inherent structural anomalies like twinning would exclude some diamonds from this possibility. We can however control what we can and that is proportions, symmetry and polish (whenever the diamond allows).


Images courtesy of Mardon Jewelers

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